And rip them off your car!

A Couple Years of Mods
 
    Home    Contact Me Magnaflow 16500 (dual quad tips) - Chrome Clad R/T 20" wheels - Mopar Wheel Caps - Body Color Spoiler - Chrome Fuel Door - Locking Gas Cap - Hood Struts - Functional Hood Scoops - Mopar Nose Badge - Front Cover Extensions - RPI Stealth Splash Guards - Mopar T-Bar Shifter - HomeLink - Hands Free uconnect microphone - Lockpick - Boyo rear camera - K&N Drop in Filter - DRL activated - WebElectric Sequential Turn Signals - Chrome Sill Guards.
 
 

Chrome Fuel Door

This was the first mod I did.  I guess what impressed me so much back in the 1968 Charger and 1970 Challenger era was the chrome fuel cap.  That stuck with me and I knew that some day I would have a car with one of those.  Though it is just a replica, it really isn't a fuel cap like the good old days.

The install was pretty straight forward.  Well, maybe not.  The instructions are just pictures and I took off the rubber gasket when I didn't have to.  You can reach up behind the wheel well inside the plastic and guide it in and it snaps in place.
 

 

 

 Mopar Nose Badge

 

I soon noticed a lot of talk about the Ram's Head on the Challenger and other Dodge cars.  Most were in agreement that the Ram's Head should be left for the truck line and should not adorn the Dodge vehicles, especially the Challenger.

I was steered to this site www.eu-decals.com which I realized was a small business in Athens, Greece, but for under $20 for the nose badge and the steering wheel emblem, I could take a flyer.  They came within a week and I decided to just install the nose badge since guys on the forum said the best way to take off the steering wheel badge was to remove the entire steering wheel.

I should add, be careful when you remove the Ram's Head. I forgot to tape and used a screwdriver wrapped with duct tape and still chipped my paint on the bottom rim. I guess I should have used a plastic dash removal tool like in the video on speedysgarage.net The badge is real thin, so it is recessed in the area. Some guys didn't like that and used another strip of tape to raise it. I didn't mind as I don't look at all that much. If you want to keep your money in the states, you can go with a guy north of me that makes them to order, with your graphic suggestions. His price is probably double.  Here's his website.   http://rebadgedesign.com/
 

 
Mopar T-Handle Shifter

This mod is one of the two bargains that fell into my lap from the forum.  I got a private message from a guy a half hour down the road who offered me his old T-Bar Shifter at an excellent price.  He installed a Hurst shifter on his new R/T and had no use for it.  I drove down to his work and picked it up the next day.  There I saw his new R/T with Chrome Clad wheels.  I knocked on them with my knuckles and said, "No way."  More on that later. 

 
Homelink

What are the six best things to see after you get done with this mod?  You're lookin' at 'em.  I could have never done this without my forum friends on Challengertalk.  With 16,000 members, it is nice to know that one of those people found the graphic for the pin-out on the right A pillar.

 
Locking Gas Cap


Okay, so does this really qualify for a mod?  At just under $20, I hope it will discourage some kids not to open my highly visible fuel door and do some damage.  Let's chalk it up to good insurance.  The only downfall of this product, the key is awfully hard to get into the slot.

 
Rear Spoiler

This, by far, was the most anxious moments I had with all of my installs.  Screw this one up and it will show.  I did a lot of studying and with the two drill holes guides for the bolts, I knew that I couldn't go wrong.  I agonized over getting the black SRT one or just be subtle and stick with the R/T theme.  What made me decided was the red R/T on the floor and the fact I was not finding the right insert for the SRT8 badge that I would of had to remove so not to up-badge my ride.

See my installation on the next page.

 
Hands Free Uconnect

So many choices; radios, mics in mirros, MyGig with Nav and Uconnect, MyGig without either.  That is what I got, so when I press the button, even though it displayed Uconnect on the screen, the voice said, "Uconnect not available."  Found out I needed to buy a module to plug in behind my radio to activate Uconnect.  The microphone came with the package.  They wanted me to mount it on the top of the driver's side A pillar, but I didn't want to see it or have it near an open window or sunroof.  So, about the same distance away, I found the best spot for it, on the back of the console under the dash.

 
Magnaflow 16500

I got my Challenger one year short of getting dual exhaust standard.  I don't know, it just seems that a good looking car needs duals, even though this isn't true dual, more like a Y pipe.  It turns out more looks than sound, but I guess I really wasn't looking for the growl all the time anyway.  Turns out, the round quads are the same look that Hurst put on their mod of the Challenger, so, good choice for me.  Buyer's remorse?  I sure wish I had the thousand bucks, but all the guys getting rid of their R/T mufflers and pipes seemed to live on the three coasts, far away from me, so I was out of luck getting a cheap mod at someone else's expense.
 

 
Boyo Rear Camera

Many say the Challenger has lots of blind spots.  At first you might think so, but after driving it, you learn where to look when backing up.  However, I park in a school lot and I have had students walk behind me a lot, so I thought I would invest in a camera.  Why not?, I already had the screen in the radio.  Had this car not come equipped with the MyGig, I probably would not have this.  I got this setup because SSDodge had it and imitation is the best form of flattery.  At first I thought the camera was too sensitive, but I bought a 2011 Durango with a factory camera installed and that is dark and this one is a lot clearer being bright.  The only problem is it is mounted behind the license plate light and the screen washes out at night.  That is now taken care of by putting in a relay on the wire exiting the car by the battery to the side markers which also gives power to the license plate light.  I wish I could have just switched the light, but there just isn't enough extra wire by the light to work with.  The wire actually goes into and out of the plate light socket on its way to the left rear marker.  I probably could cut and splice and then run a new wire to the plate light from the trunk, but having the marker lights turn off when backing is not that big of a deal.  Besides, it could go back to stock really easy with out the drastic cutting.

The camera wires enters the car at the back of the trunk through the vent grille by lifting the flap which connects to the long set of cables used to go to the radio.  I then ran ran the camera and power wires up the main wire harness on the right side of the car.  The rear seat comes out easy, just lift straight up.  Not like the older cars where you had to push back and lift up.  The wire went under the door sill.  Be careful when lifting that out.  I broke one of the clips near the front.  Patience my friend.  It is easiest to take off the glove box door.  The cord will come off on the side and you just  push the clips in on the sides and it drops down and comes off.  (See Lockpick)
 

 
Lockpick

The camera was a combination mod since one needs a way to activate the radio, so I purchased the Lockpick.  I didn't get mine from Coastaltech since they were selling the latest version, v3, for $100 more than the v2 which I go off Ebay from TVandNav2Go, but I can't find them on Ebay now.  I only wanted the functions that the 2 did anyway, so why pay the extra dough?  The radio comes out of the car by lifting the bottom of the bezel and pulling it off.  It is best to block the car and take it out of park.  Four screws allows for the radio to come out.  Unclip the car's harness and insert the Lockpick module in the radio and then reassemble the car's module into that.  I, however, have my Uconnect module in series as well.  They included the AV cable with mine and Coastaltech would make me buy one.  That is where the camera cables attach.  The RCA to the video input, the black ground to ground, and the red + to the pink REV wire.  I put the car in reverse and everything worked perfectly.  $300 for this mod which included the Lockpick and the camera.
 

 
RPL Splash Guards

Even with these only being $50 for all four, about half of the Chrysler guards, I still thought long and hard before I installed these.  I really didn't want to change the looks of the original design and I wasn't all that concerned about the paint chips that the guys were complaining about.  I didn't notice any, but I did have to rivet the lower fascia back on after installing the dual exhaust.  I let the fascia hang loose for almost a year (it never moved) and when I got my new tires, I had the opportunity to get to the holes with a rivet gun, so I bit the bullet and got the guards.  I liked the thin look.
 

 
Chrome Clad Wheels

Like my T-Handle Shifter, this mod fell in my lap.  I was admiring the Heritage wheels, but the cost was just more than I could stomach.  A fellow CT member wrote me and offered up his Chrome Clads that he could no longer use since he was adding Brembos to his R/T to handle is new Arrington Super Charged engine.  I got the wheels, tires with 7,000 miles on them and TPM sensors.  What a deal!  My question got answered.  Can you put 4 wheels and tires in a Challenger?  Yes, one in the trunk and 3 in the back seat if you take it out.
 

 
Fender Extensions

Why did I get these?  I guess they were cheap enough and I was trying to make my car look like an R/T or at least have the same features as the R/T without purchasing the HEMI engine which I really don't need.  Maybe if I drove one, I would change my mind.  I thought if the SRT and the R/T have them, why not?
 

 
K&N Drop in Filter

My brother was after me to add the K&N drop in filter.  The guys on CT were putting this in and someone posted a link to buy it on Amazon, so for close to $40 I thought I would bite.  They say it makes the car louder since it allows more air to breathe.  I think I can hear the difference.  Now I just have to learn how to clean it.  At least I won't get stung at the dealer at oil changes for a new paper filter.  This one should be a lifetime filter.
 

 
DRL Activation

This mod gave me the most trouble and disappointment for some time.  My selling dealer really gave me the run around - twice.  The first time when I had my first oil change, the tech told me that there was no computer in the car and asked how I knew about this.  He then insulted me by telling me that the people on forums do not know what they are talking about.  BS x 2!  So I left vowing never to go back there again.  I went to my local dealer and they had no clue what to do.  So, I went back to the selling dealer, this time during the week to see if they could do it along with my second oil change.  The service writer came to me in the showroom after the oil change and she told me that my car does not have the software that activate the DRL.  That did it!  In baseball you have three strikes.  This dealer only gets two.    A guy in my local Chryslers of Wisconsin club (now defunct) is on his second Challenger and shuttles cars for our local dealer.  He spoke with the techs and they got his lights set up and told me to take my car in.  I did and had the job done in about 10 minutes - NO CHARGE.  That's all it took to get me back into the showroom and I bought a used Durango about a half year later.
 

 
Mopar Wheel Caps

The trend is to de-Ram the Challenger as it really is the badge for the Ram trucks.  I started by replacing the nose badge and when the Dodge wheel caps came out in 2011, I figured why not?  As it turned out, I kept the Ram caps for the original wheels that came with the car so I don't have to change them every fall and spring when I swap out my tires.

 
Hood Scoops

Since my plan is to equip the car to look like an R/T, I had to get the functional hood scoops.  Who knows if they do any good, but Speedy says that he measured a 10 degree drop in compartment temperature.  Does that make a difference?  Who knows, but the outside temp can change 100 degrees from winter to summer so does it really matter?  Most say this isn't a forced air system, but it will allow hot air to escape from the engine compartment when standing idle.  Anyway, you really don't want fake capped up items on your car, so on they go.  See how I did it.

 
Chrome Pedals

The same guy that sold me the scoops found out that I was looking at putting on the pedals and sent me a picture of factory original equipment pedals.  That made my mind up as I was not that interested in the Mopar aftermarket ones they sell at the dealers.  Those have the large pads on each pedal.  I wanted the ones that came with the purchase of the car, the ones with just the dots.

 
Chrome Sill Guards

This bling came last as I wasn't about to spend over $100 on door sills.  Then I saw that guys were getting them for less than half price direct for a supplier in China.  I was at work one day and someone handed me an envelope from the Christmas Party which I didn't attend.  Inside was a $50 gift check.  Since the sills were $49.99 shipped, I immediately thought of gifting myself these sills.

 
Sequential Turn Signals

So, I got lucky and won a halo fog light kit from 231 Auto Parts.com (which is now defunct) on Challengerforum.com.  They were kind enough to swap out for a set of WebElectric Sequential Turn Signals.  I installed these on a December afternoon and probably should have waited for more daylight and a warmer temperature.  I broke a clip off the cap on the side of the center light (but it still holds) and I put a scratch on the back of my deck trying to line up the bolts on the light that go into the holes on the deck.  I should have taped the bolts from the get go. This mod is purely for the "other guy" as you will never see them work unless you let someone else drive your car.  But isn't buying a Challenger all about showing off your ride to the general public?

 

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